Provo · Service & Panel Work
Most Provo homes built before the mid-1990s were wired for a house that didn't have a heat pump, an induction range, a hot tub, and a car plugged in overnight. We replace tired 100-amp panels with clean, labeled 200-amp service — permitted, inspected, and finished in a day.
Signs it's time
None of these mean your house is about to burn down. They do mean the panel is telling you something, and it's worth having an electrician read the message before you spend money on anything else.
What it costs
That's the range a standard 200-amp panel upgrade typically lands in across Utah, depending on the condition of your existing wiring and where the panel sits.
We don't quote a panel upgrade over the phone. Someone comes out, pulls the cover, checks the service entrance, and writes a fixed number before any work starts.
Straight answers
Two houses on the same Provo street can be a thousand dollars apart, and it usually has nothing to do with the panel itself.
The panel is a box with breakers in it. The cost lives in everything attached to it: the cable coming in from the utility, the meter can, the mast through the roof, the ground rods, the water-line bond, and how much wall has to come off to get at the feeder. When a home already has a clean service entrance and the panel is on an accessible exterior wall, the job is straightforward. When the service is undersized, the mast is rusted, or the panel is buried in a finished room, the work grows.
The honest version is this: we can tell you which house you have in about twenty minutes with the cover off. Anybody who gives you a firm price before that is guessing, and the guess gets corrected mid-job.
Start to finish
A typical replacement is a one-day job. Power is off for most of it — plan to work somewhere else, and don't open the freezer.
Before anything is quoted, we look at the service entrance, the grounding, the breaker brand, and what you're planning to add. The load calculation determines whether 200 amps is right, or whether your house genuinely needs more.
Panel upgrades are permitted and inspected work in Provo. We pull the permit, coordinate the disconnect and reconnect with the power company, and give you the date. You don't call anyone.
Circuits get labeled and photographed before anything is disconnected, so what came out matches what goes back in.
Fresh breakers, proper torque on every lug, ground rods and water-line bond brought to current code, arc-fault and ground-fault protection where the code requires it, and a typed schedule inside the door.
We meet the inspector, correct anything on the spot if needed, and stay until every circuit in the house is verified live and every appliance has been checked.
What you get
Filed under our license, scheduled around your day, and signed off before we leave. The paperwork follows the house.
Ground rods, the water-line bond, and the neutral-ground separation get corrected. This is the part most homeowners never see and every inspector checks.
Printed, accurate, and taped inside the door. Not five circuits marked "lights" in pencil.
We size the panel with open slots on purpose, so the EV charger next spring is an afternoon, not another upgrade.
Furnace, range, well pump, garage door, the outlet behind the fridge. All of it, tested with you standing there.
Old panel hauled off, drywall dust vacuumed, no scrap in the side yard.
Questions we get weekly
If yours isn't here, ask when we're out. There's no such thing as a dumb question about the box that feeds your whole house.
Where we work in Provo
No. Amperage is the capacity of the pipe, not the water running through it. You pay for the kilowatt-hours you use. A larger panel lets more current flow safely when you ask for it — it doesn't pull anything on its own.
Plenty of small homes with gas heat, a gas range, and a gas water heater run fine on 100 amps. The load calculation answers it honestly. Where 100 amps stops working is when you electrify: heat pump, induction range, heat-pump water heater, or an EV. Add two of those and the math usually stops working.
Most of the working day. The utility disconnects in the morning and reconnects after the inspection clears. We tell you the window in advance so you can plan around it, and we don't start a panel swap late in the day.
Sometimes, and we'll say so if it's the right call — a subpanel is cheaper when the problem is slot count rather than capacity. But if the load calculation says the service itself is undersized, a subpanel just moves the crowding somewhere else. It doesn't create amps that aren't coming into the house.
Certain older panel lines have long-standing reputations with inspectors and insurers, and replacement breakers for them can be difficult or impossible to source. If you have one, we'll identify it by name when we're out and explain what your options actually are, including doing nothing for now.
If the panel stays put and the feeder doesn't move, usually not. If the panel relocates — out of a bedroom closet, say, which current code doesn't permit — there's drywall work, and we tell you that up front rather than at the end.
Yes, both. The permit is pulled under our license, and we schedule the utility disconnect and reconnect. Your only job is being home for the inspection window.
A panel assessment means an electrician on site: cover off, service entrance checked, breaker brand identified, grounding verified, and a load calculation run against what you're planning to add. You leave with a fixed price and a plain-English list of what's wrong, what's fine, and what can wait.